Whether you decide that your home becomes uncomfortable during the warm or cold months of the 4 seasons, there are many choices you can make that will help. From energy saving light bulbs, to window treatments using thin see through plastic sheeting, to simply wearing a bit more and lowering your thermostat, the accumulation of smart energy saving choices can help your overall living costs, health and general existance in your home.

Consider a programmable thermostat. You can set the heating or cooling system to exert itself less while you are at work, or home in your bed.

The green going energy saving light bulbs are useful because they use approximately 1/4 of the electricity than the previous bulbs on the market.

If you have recessed lighting, consider the new dome lids that have been made to cut down on air infiltration in your upper floors leading into the attic area.

Be sure to have a thermal imaging report done in your home to focus exactly where you can spend your efforts, time, and money in your green going choices.

Have your heating system checked for filter condition ductwork condition  once every 2 years. Safety is also a concern so schedule a service before the extra use during winter months.

Using a flashlight check for exterior door sealing by viewing the areas along the edge of the doors that lead to outside areas. Air infiltration occurs here.

1. Walls.
The United States Department of Energy (DOE) estimates that up to 40 percent of the cost of heating and cooling a home is lost to uncontrolled air leakage. When air leaves the house, it takes moisture and pollutants along for the ride, contributing to premature deterioration, ice damming, mold and mildew and poor indoor air quality. When unconditioned air enters the home, it increases thermal discomfort and makes the indoor environment hard to control. Continuous air barrier systems improve energy efficiency by keeping conditioned air inside the house where it belongs. By controlling air movement with planned ventilation, you'll get a reduction in moisture, condensation, mold and mildew. Homes built to the American Lung Association® Health House® guidelines are constructed airtight to improve energy efficiency and prevent unplanned moisture movement.

2. Air Sealing.
Stop costly uncontrolled air leakage by sealing gaps, cracks and holes in the building envelope. Improve energy efficiency and durability. Reduce tenant complaints by providing a safer, healthier, more comfortable indoor environment. “Sealing those air leaks will help you maintain your home at a comfortable temperature all year long and help lower energy bills. The biggest holes are most often found in the attic and the basement.” - Frequently Asked Questions About Air Sealing. Insulate 'hard-to-build' areas Two-component polyurethane insulating air sealants and one-component polyurethane foam sealants are installed from within the building structure to seal and insulate 'hard-to-build' areas, such as windows, doors, penetrations, parapets and soffits to create insulating air barrier system continuity from the foundation up through the walls and across the roof. Click here to request further information New construction or retrofit, insulating air sealants contribute to: Improved energy efficiency Reduced moisture transmission Reduced chance of mold and mildew growth Reduced ice damming.

3. Foundations.
According to the United States Department of Energy, 20% of energy loss in residential structures can be attributed to insulated foundations. The use of closed-cell, spray-applied polyurethane foam under slab and on the exterior of foundation walls adds thermal protection and moisture management to the structure without reducing the useable space within the basement. Eliminate cracking, shrinkage and moisture problems Below slab: Addresses soil gas migration Provides a stable substrate for concrete Creates slope-to-drain aspect to the substrate Reduces need for excessive thickness of concrete to provide drainage Fast and design friendly Direct to the cured block, or poured concrete foundation walls: Provides a fully-adhered, monolithic layer of insulation on the outside of the foundation Engineered to withstand hydrostatic head pressures of typical backfill and water tables Creates an effective, insulated moisture management system.

4. Ceiling.
It’s the basic physics lesson: hot air rises. In hot climates, this phenomenon can make summer living on upper floors almost unbearable. When HVAC equipment is located in the attic, it can also mean inflated energy bills. In cold climates, warm, moist air from the living space of the house travels upwards through gaps, cracks and holes into the unconditioned attic space. There, it meets cold air and even colder surfaces where it condenses, causing premature building deterioration, mold and rot. Those giant icicles? They’re not pretty. They can be dangerous. And they indicate a serious problem with ceiling and attic air seal and insulation. How? Warm attics also melt the bottom layer of snow on the roof and the water runs down to the gutter where it refreezes. Shingles get lifted. Icicles break and eaves fall off posing a risk to occupants and guests. Energy is wasted. Stop uncontrolled air leakage Click here to request further information Closed-cell, spray-applied polyurethane foam insulation in the attic or on the ceiling stops uncontrolled air leakage to give you control over indoor temperatures, eliminate ice damming and keep energy costs under control. Self-adhering, closed-cell polyurethane foam conforms to any shape, will not shrink or sag over time, and creates a seamless, air- and water-impermeable barrier that separates conditioned living space from unconditioned attic. In cathedral ceiling applications, polyurethane foam does not promote deterioration of the existing roof sheathing, because it does not allow condensation at the foam/deck interface. Some traditional insulation systems have high water absorption, and hold moisture against the underside of the sheathing. Closed-cell foam insulation can be applied without roof ventilation, because it is fully adhered and air impermeable. Moisture does not condense between the insulation and the sheathing.

5. Insulations.
Insulation. Air leakage control. Structural strength. Flood resistance. This isn’t your grandfather’s insulation. Combining a superior insulation R-value with near-zero air permeability, closed-cell, spray-applied polyurethane foam increases energy efficiency and occupant comfort and improves indoor air quality. The United States Department of Energy (DOE) reports that up to 40% of the cost of heating and cooling a home is lost to uncontrolled air leakage. Closed-cell polyurethane foam insulation has been tested and is certified to be an air barrier at an application of 1-inch thickness. It is fully-adhered and does not allow air to flow around, behind or through the insulation system. The DOE has also shown that 15% of traditional insulation materials’ effectiveness is lost due to convection loops through and behind board and batt systems. Polyurethane technology eliminates this by forming a fully adhered, seamless insulation and air barrier system. Increased structural integrity, reduced mold Spray-applied closed-cell polyurethane foam is the only insulation material proven to add structural integrity throughout the wall system, according to the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) Research Center. Tests conducted there show spray foam insulation between wood- and steel-stud wall panels increased rack and shear strength two to three times compared with standard stick-built components with glass fiber insulation. In addition to rack and shear, closed-cell polyurethane foam is classified as an acceptable flood-resistant material by the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA). Mold requires three things to grow: moisture, warm temperatures and a food source. Polyurethane foam insulation eliminates condensing surfaces, reduces the potential to accumulate moisture, has no nutritional value and is not considered a food source for mold.